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CRAMP: November - December 2000 Wave Gallery
Persistent North Pacific Swell reached the Hawaiian Islands during Nov- Dec 2000. During this time North Pacific Swell waves along the north shore of O‘ahu and south west Moloka‘i were photographed by Debbie and Kimball Millikan during the course of aerial surveys. Wave information and photographs were furnished by Mr. Pat Caldwell NOAA/NODC/NCDDC Hawai‘i-Pacific liaison.
A North Pacific Swell occurred on November 26, 2000. Waves between 10 and 12 feet reached the north shore of O‘ahu from a compass direction of 310 to 320 degrees.
"Backyards" reef area adjacent to Sunset Beach on north shore of O‘ahu on 26 Nov 2000. Sunset Beach surf site is visible on the right as the area of refracting whitewater. Photograph by Debbie and Kimball Millikan. (Click for a larger view)
"Pipeline" on north shore of O‘ahu west of Pupukea CRAMP site on 26 Nov 2000. Photograph by Debbie and Kimball Millikan. (Click for a larger view)
Waimea Bay on north shore of O‘ahu east of the Pupukea CRAMP site on 26 November 2000. Photograph by Debbie and Kimball Millikan. (Click for a larger view)
North Pacific Swell occurred on December 25, 2000 during a period of low wind. Waves arrived from a compass direction of 290 to 320 degrees. Breaking waves of 20 to 25 feet were reported on the north shore of O‘ahu. Mr. Kimball Millikan photographed the refraction pattern of these waves at the south west corner of Moloka‘i as they wrapped around the south coast. North Pacific Swell refraction patterns show very clearly in the images due to a lack of local surface winds.
WAM model for Moloka‘i on 25 Dec 2000 shows wave patterns that agree with observations shown in photographs. Model output provided by U.S. Naval Oceanographic Office. (Click for a larger view)
Refraction pattern of North Pacific Swell around Laau Point shows the same pattern as that shown in the WAM model on the left for 25 Dec 2000. Note swell running parallel to south shore past the small harbor at Hale o Lono. Photograph by Debbie and Kimball Millikan, 25 Dec. 2000. (Click for a larger view)
View looking eastward along the coast reveals rapid attenuation of the refracted North Pacific Swell beyond Hale o Lono Harbor. Photo by Debbie and Kimball Millikan, 25 Dec 2000. (Click for a larger view)
USGS/CRAMP surveys found that shallow coral reef communities to west of Hale o Lono Harbor have low coral cover (less than 20%) at depths of 30 feet due to extreme wave action due to damaging North Pacific Swell. Note that the area farther to the east of Hale o Lono Harbor is out of the reach of refracted wave damage and shows extremely high coral cover (80-90%). Photo by Debbie and Kimball Millikan, 25 Dec 2000. (Click for a larger view)
Last Update: 04/21/2008
By: Lea Hollingsworth
Hawai‘i Coral Reef Assessment & Monitoring Program
Hawai‘i Institute of Marine Biology
P.O. Box 1346
Kāne‘ohe, HI 96744
808-236-7440 phone
808-236-7443 fax
email: jokiel@hawaii.edu